THE KHAJURAHO DANCE AND MUSIC FESTIVAL

In its 29th year now, this festival held in ancient temples takes classical dance back to its roots, among stone sursundaris and their paramours entwined in intricate postures of amour. Attended by discerning regulars and one-timers, Khajuraho recently included contemporary performance in its repertoire.

WHEN: Every year, February-March. In 2005, the festival is usually scheduled to run from February 25 to March 3. Performances each day start as the last rays of the sun touch the western lot of temples, and continue into the night.

WHERE: Recitals in an open-air auditorium in front of the Chitragupta Temple of the sun god or the Vishwanatha Temple of Shiva.

THE STYLES: Bharatnatyam, Kuchipudi, Kathak, Manipuri, Odissi, Kathakali; contemporary dance forms have recently been included. Sanjukta Panigrahi, Aditi Mangaldas, Raja, Radha and Kaushalya Reddy, Kalavati Devi, Anandi Ramachandran, Priyadarshini Govind, Vyjayanti Kashi and Bimbavati Devi - generations of dancers of all genres consider performing at Khajuraho a highpoint in their career.

"In the early days, performances were held right on temple structures and it was possible to walk up the steps. It felt like the gods were coming alive. The name and credits of the dancer would be the main draw" - Kuchipudi dancer Kaushalya Reddy.

SYMPATHY FOR THE DEVIL

AT KEN RIVER LODGE, you're urged to interpret the jungle and its rules rather than be mere observers - they expect you to rough it out rather than be waited upon. Clearly no place to expect a Jacuzzi, you'll find lunch served at a restaurant on a machaan 1500 feet above ground.

A tribal boatman assigned to row you to the Bahaargunj jungle village in the morning drops by to inform you about the stopover at the Ken Gharial Sanctuary. In the half-light of dawn the riverside is eerily quiet, the animals quieter. You're urged not to break the spell, at the risk of upsetting nature's equation as a spotted feline makes its move on an unsuspecting herbivore. One stifling bite and it's over. You may watch the ensuing feast or make a quiet retreat; you may sympathize with the fallen and marvel at the vanquisher. But you must respect the kill.

The glistening flash near the water may be an animal, perilously close. At a distance a diffused murmur startles you. The villagers are gathering to prepare for Holi celebrations in a few days' time. Fear and calm pervade young dreams and old wisdom, wild hunger and social voracity, mildew and ashes from a forest fire, the simple gestures and dialects of men and women who call this land their pride of centuries and the refined bols and thumkas of those who feel honored to be invited to perform here every summer.

"The history and images associated with Khajuraho make it a lovely experience for
a classical dancer to perform. Amid such
an ensemble, you are always eager to play
your part" - Bharatnatyam dancer
Priyadarshini Govind.

GETTING THERE
By train: The nearest railway station, Satna, is just above five hours by train from Delhi. From the station buses and cabs are available for drops to the lodge.
By air: Indian Airlines and Jet Airways fly daily from Delhi to Khajuraho in season. Currently there are no direct flights from Mumbai or Bangalore. One can take a flight to Bhopal and then hire a car to travel to the lodge.
By road: Ken River lodge is located 27 km from Khajuraho and 635 km from Delhi, drive through Agra, Gwalior, Jhansi and Datia.
Summer's a good time to hit the forests as the animals head out in search of water. A trip late February-early March will let you plug in to the festival as well.

KEN RIVER LODGE PACKAGES
2 night/3 days - Rs7,000 per couple, includes a jeep safari in Panna National Park. Single cost - Rs5,000.
3 night/4 days - Rs10,000 per couple, includes two jeep safaris in Panna National Park and one boat ride. Single cost - Rs7,000.
4 night/5 days - Rs13,500 per couple, includes two jeep safaris in Panna National Park, one Night Safari to Jhinna Safari camp and one boat ride. Single Cost - Rs10,000.
The lodge arranges for tickets and transport to the Khajuraho Dance Festival on request.

ENCOUNTERS OF THE KILLER KIND

THE PANNA NATIONAL PARK is a dramatic landscape of open forests with short grass and undercover, closed canopy forests, savannah woodlands reflecting sub Saharan habitats, tall grasslands and scrub. The river Ken is one of 16 perennial rivers
of Madhya Pradesh and Chattisgarh - rivulets flow through the Vindhyas and fill up the park's waterholes. Over 200 species of birds share this territory with the big cats, wild dogs, wolves,
sloth bear, wild boar, deer, antelopes, hyenas, jackals, foxes,
langoors and pangolins. The park is also famous for its
crocodiles and gharials, and angling for the giant mahaseer is quite an experience.

WATERFALLS, A FORT AND TEMPLES: Both the Pandav and Raneh falls are in the reserve forest area - Raneh is the site for the Ken Gharial sanctuary. Rajgarh Fort is 8km from the lodge, and a half-day trip will take you to the Kalinjar Fort 120km away. Religious offerings are made at the Jhalariya and Swargeshwar temples during Shivratri and Basant Panchami.

ROCK PAINTINGS: Relics from the Gondwana period, ten thousand years old and attributed to tribes who inhabited the region at the time. The Panna diamond mines are near, at the Hinota Gate.

BAHAARGUNJ JUNGLE VILLAGE: In the grounds of the hunting lodge of the Maharaja of Panna. The village can be accessed only by boat. There's no electricity, but you can expect concrete bathrooms with hot and cold water.

JUNGLE SAFARIS AND BOAT RIDES: The lodge organizes two safaris everyday and motorboat rides on request. The adventurous opt for truck tubes instead of boats like local fishermen. Naturalists and lifeguards accompany guests at all times.