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| 20 Oct 1999 |
| The
roads less travelled |
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| Usual destinations,
unusual holidays. We help you discover the magic that still
lurks around some of India's most overdone holiday spots -- at
little extra cost. |
Rupin Dang
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It's that time
of year again. The hot, dusty summer is safely behind
us, the monsoons are just about done with our
subcontinent, and ephemeral autumn-that shortest season
in the Indian calendar-falls upon us. Even as the
forthcoming festival season appears to be losing
significance in terms of its religious or cultural
roots, the concept of a 'Dussehra holiday' is gaining
ground.
After all, this is as good a reason as
any to take a break. Even though it's somewhat late in
the season to actually plan a Dussehra break-chances are
you already know where you're headed for your 10-day
holiday with the family-there's still time to make this
one different. Intelligent Investor offers you ways to
spice up your break with offbeat mini-itineraries, based
out of your typical holiday hotspots.
The idea
behind instigating you on these side vacations is to
make you get out of town, make you walk, and make you
have fun-doing anything but the usual. These trips need
not inflate your vacation budget: many are simply day
trips. In some cases
we do not recommend that you
contact travel agencies; all you need to do is speak to
the staff at the hotel you're staying in, and you're
likely to get more than fulsome details. In the cases
that you do need a little 'bandobast', we recommend a
few reliable travel
agents.
KHAJURAHO
Usual
attraction. Temples with erotic art
Unusual
action. Some of Central India's finest forest
country, wilderness camps, Rajgarh Palace
You're
probably here for the ancient temples that have put
Khajuraho on the world map of erotic exotica. Pack in
more: take a break from gazing at the wondrous temples
and explore the glorious forts and palaces of Madhya
Pradesh. Go to the wild and unexplored fort of Kalinjar,
which lies some 120km north-east. Make it a day trip,
starting early from Khajuraho, and make it back after
sundown.
If you want to stick to something in the
vicinity, make a shorter trip to Rajgarh Palace, a mere
one-hour drive away. Ask your hotel or travel agent to
get you advance permission to enter the Palace. The
route to Rajgarh passes through some quaint villages.
Look out for roadside wetlands with scattered pairs of
the stately Sarus Crane in attendance. A more exciting
trip can be made out of the tough jeep ride to the top
of Maniagarh Fort, which overlooks Rajgarh from a forest
escarpment atop a thickly wooded teak and tendu-forested
hillock. Forty-five kilometres to the west of Khajuraho
lies the beautiful palace of Chattarpur, the erstwhile
stronghold of the ruling family of Chattarpur. Plan a
half-day trip and soak in the countryside en
route.
For some forest fun, head to Panna
National Park, less than 30km away. Some of Central
India's finest grasslands, meadows and plateau forests
will greet you here. Chinkara could bound across the
narrow jeep track on the plateau and an early morning
drive may even yield a sloth bear blundering back to its
cave in the escarpments below the plateau
country.
Unwind for a day or two at the exclusive
Ken River Lodge, one of the finest wilderness camps in
India. Sit on a machan 20ft above the placid Ken River,
in the middle of a copse of gigantic Arjun trees,
sipping a drink at the Ken River bar, or removing the
late evening chill by the bonfire. If you feel
adventurous, make for the second machan, 40ft high, and
look for civet cats. And when the urge to move strikes
again, drive down to the Hinauta Plateau and see
diamonds being mined at this legendary location. Else,
book an elephant and venture deep into the aonla and
teak plateau forests of Hinauta. Watch the sun set from
the edge of the plateau; rush hour traffic will seem
like the nightmare setting of a bad novel.
A
relaxing day can be spent lunching at Raneh Falls, 24km
from Khajuraho. The Ken River has some of the finest
waterfalls, not spectacular in terms of height but
certainly for spread and visual appeal.
For local
trips, ask your hotel to arrange the logistics. For
visits to Panna National Park and the neighbouring
attractions, contact Shyamendra Singh at Ken River
Lodge, Village Madla, District Panna, MP 488 001 (ph:
07732-75235).
MUSSOORIE
Usual
attraction. The Mall, Kempty Falls
Unusual
action. Fine forests and wildlife, fabulous
Himalayan views, undisturbed Landour, good
treks
You don't really need us to tell you about
the mall or the food or the hotels or the parking in
Mussoorie. But what you perhaps do not know is that its
hillside, with its grotesque RCC structures marring the
blue sky, is carved out of an exquisite lower Himalayan
mountain range, with some of the region's finest forests
and wildlife. And where our post-independent culture of
ruin and destruction has not taken us yet, small pockets
of sylvan magic still remain, with their attendant
populations of leopard, black bear, peora or hill
partridge, and goral or wild mountain goat. Some
fabulous Himalayan snow views also greet the visitor,
with almost 500km of Himalayan snow peaks coming into
view from prominent hilltops.
Take a day trek up
to Landour. And, please walk! Unless health or age are
barriers to doing so. The walk is good exercise and the
air is clean and pure, once you're out of Mussoorie's
bazaar. Walk around the Lal Tibba hill after crossing
the bridge at Char Dukani and maybe peep through the
telescope at Durbeen Point. You may get some close-ups
of Jaonli or the Gangotri peaks if the post-monsoon
clouds have let up. Walk to the other end of the hill
and take the left (and wilder) route at the Landour
Language School, till you reach Sister's Bazaar. If
Prakash's shop hasn't run out of cheese, take some home.
Even if he has run out, you can still get some fresh
strawberry, peach, plum or apricot jams for family and
friends.
At the other end of town lie the twin
peaks of Bhadraj and Benog. Drive down to the resort at
Cloud End, where those not of an outdoors bent can spend
the day. The more adventurous can fuel up here and
undertake a tough trek up to the summit of Benog. The
even more ambitious can take a full day and try to make
it to the top of Bhadraj. You'll get great views on a
clear day, and may see a goral or two. You'll certainly
come back fitter.
In the same direction but
physically far less stressful, you could drive down the
road above the Municipal Gardens in Mussoorie, go past
the nursery, and head to the Park Estate. Park at the
Toll Barrier and walk a gentle two kilometres to the top
of the hill, which once served as the residence of Sir
George Everest, whose name later graced the
peak.
For a longer day trip, choose the Aglar
Junction for some fishing and walking along the river at
its confluence with the Yamuna. Drive down the Kempty
Falls road, and if you want to avoid the crowds, carry
on down to the confluence. Park your car at the few
shops near the bridge and walk down to the spot where
the Aglar meets the Yamuna and spend a fun day at this
beautifully wild spot before heading back to crowded
Mussoorie for the night.
For a longer drive, this
time to the east of Mussoorie, take the nicely tarred
road to Dhanolti and pass through the orchards of
Kanatal. Stop frequently and take in the lovely views of
the plains to your right and the higher ranges and snow
views to your left. You pass through some fabulous first
range forests along the way, so if you are in a mood to
walk, find the right spot, and take off into the woods,
camera in hand.
DARJEELING
Usual
attraction. Tiger Hill, The Mall
Unusual
action. Excellent forest walks, spectacular views
from Sandakphu
The trip to Darjeeling takes some
planning, regardless of where you're coming from,
because of its distance from any town of considerable
size. Once there, though, there are many exciting
excursions to be made, for both the adventurous and the
not so adventurous.
Starting with the relatively
tame, you can make a motorised half-day trip to the top
of Tiger Hill early morning. If the weather favours you,
not only will you get an excellent view of Kanchenjunga
but also perhaps of the faraway Everest. If you're not
chilled by the early morning air, you can stop on your
way back at the Ghoom Monastery, which practises a
variation of the Yellow Hat sect of Tibetan
Buddhism.
For a two-day trip, choose a visit to
Sandakphu, which lies to the west of Darjeeling at a
height of over 4,000m on the Singelila ridge. Drive down
in a jeep, jonga or Gypsy, as the road from
Maney-bhanjang is rather basic. The drive takes about
five hours and you can stay in a number of places there,
either the DGHC rest house or private accommodations.
Early morning views of Kanchenjunga, Everest, Makulu and
all peaks of the Kanchenjunga range can be spectacular,
weather permitting.
The trip and stay can be
arranged by several tour operators based in Darjeeling.
Clubside Tours and Travels can be reached at
03592-54646/54657, fax 54123; Himalayan Travels is at
54544/ 52254, fax 54330, and Himali Travel Specialists
is at 54487/55672, fax 54330.
There are many
other options for trips around Darjeeling, whether
sedate or wild. Pemayangtse lies about four hours away,
and offers close-at-hand views of Kanchenjunga, some
excellent forest walks, and a close look at the local
monastery. Closer to Darjeeling lies Mirik Lake with its
relatively sober blend of boating, fishing and walking.
A more exciting escape is to the Rangeet-Tista junction
via Peshok Tea Estate. En route, you'll find beautiful
butterfly nullas, some wild forests and views of the
river.
BHARATPUR
Usual attraction.
Bird sanctuary
Unusual action. Beautiful
monuments and forts
Where else in the world can
you see a wildlife sanctuary in an autorickshaw? Where
else in India will your rickshaw driver give you the
scientific names of the birds and animals? Where else
can you almost tumble over a 12ft Asiatic rock python
without any real danger? Where else in this country does
the sky still reverberate with the screams of 10,000
waterfowl? Where else can you boat through a narrow
canal, more beautiful than the canals in
Venice?
In the Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary, the
Keoladeo Ghana situated near the rather crowded town of
Bharatpur in Rajasthan, not far from the Agra highway,
and close enough to Fatehpur Sikri. Bharatpur is the
perfect Dussehra getaway, as the wetland breeding nears
its peak at this time. If you happen to already be in
Bharatpur and have had your fill of painted storks and
cormorants, you can opt for some side excursions. Head
an hour away to the lovely 18th century town of Deeg
with its beautiful gardens, sandstone structures and 500
fountains that throw out waters of many colours during a
spring season festival. Roam the palaces and fort all
day, and be sure to see the banquet hall with its
collection of Victorian furniture, animal trophies and
typical palace accoutrements.
Bharatpur Fort was
completed in the year 1756 by Maharaja Suraj Mal, and
was one of Rajasthan's best-built forts. The perimeter
of the outermost of its three walls was seven miles. The
Palace is built in a blend of Mughal and Rajput
architectural styles. Nearby is the Lohagarh Fort, with
its vast fortifications that run along the ridgeline of
a hill. The massive cannons and impressive doorway with
elephants embellished on are both
must-sees.
Dussehra celebrates the end of the
10-day war between Ram and Ravan. Here, it is celebrated
with the Jaswant mela, which can be visited by those who
lack an aversion to crowds.
OOTY
Usual
attraction. Botanical Gardens, boating
Unusual
action. Unexplored walks, fabulous mountainous
terrain, rare Nilgiri wildlife
Ooty and Coonoor
are twin hill stations about 7,500ft above sea level.
Different from Himalayan hill stations, they are less
crowded and built-up, but still offer wild and peaceful
locales in their vicinities. Modelled on London's Kew
Gardens, Ooty's Botanical Gardens are 145 years old, and
host a range of herbs, plants and stands of mature
trees. Coonoor has its equivalent, in the form of Sims'
Park, which is a little tamer with its rose gardens,
tree-lined avenues and flowerbeds. Situated six
kilometres from Coonoor is Lamb's Rock, another feature
worth a look-see, with this precarious rock perch
offering a panoramic view of the Mettupalayam ghat and
ravine country.
There are a number of options for
long walks and drives. You can take just about any path
that wanders off into the forest, and be rewarded with
typically Nilgiri birdlife and fine forests. Other
options include trips to Wenlock Downs, Lady Canning's
Seat, Kateri Falls, Carin Hill and the Sixth
Mile.
Other, more ambitious, destinations in the
general area include Munnar, with its fabulous
mountainous terrain and tea estates, Eravikulam with its
shrinking population of the rare Nilgiri tahr, and the
somewhat distant Kabini resort, world-famous for its
fishing and wildlife
viewing.
KULLU-MANALI
Usual attraction.
Rohtang Pass, Hadimba temple
Unusual action.
River rafting, peaceful forests
Manali has a
lot more to offer than just Rohtang Pass and the bazaar.
Sure, you must make it up to Rohtang and savour the
view, but find time for some offbeat options.
Try
the Tibetan School run by the Tibet Welfare Committee.
The Tibetan market sports across-the-border cheap goods,
and the Buddhist monastery makes for a nice half-day
getaway, as you walk through the labyrinthine corridors.
The Nehru Park sounds like it were in central Delhi, but
this area has some beautiful old-stand deodar forests
and a few wildfowl species in a large aviary. You can
see a few pairs of Himachal's state bird, the monal
pheasant and also some chukor partridge here.
A
short drive or walk is to the Hadimba temple, built in
1553. An interesting diversion is a visit to Duff
Dunbar, a grand old house built in 1850 by Dunbar, the
first British forest officer here. Made of deodar and
other forest timbers and masonry, it was built on
European dimensions.
Although Manali is not known
for its rafting, there are some relatively soft
stretches of white water on the Beas that can be rafted
in this season. A suitable rafting operator is Himalayan
Journeys based in Manali (ph: 0091-1902-52365; fax:
53065).
The Vashisht hot springs are managed by the
government. Here, you can take a private hot sulphur
bath. But it's best to carry along your own
towels.
Located just over a half-hour away from
Manali town, on the left bank of the Beas, Naggar was
the capital of the Kullu valley till 1660. The castle of
the erstwhile King of Kullu is now a hotel that affords
an excellent view of the valley. A nice half-day or
overnight getaway from Manali. For a one-hour walk from
Naggar, take the route to Rumsu, a beautiful village
with lovely mountain homes. Beware of the local alcohol,
which is very potent!
The Roerich gallery is
located in the house where the painter Nikolai Roerich
lived for over 20 years earlier this century, in Naggar.
Solang Nala is home to regular skiing action in the
winter months. It may be worth a visit even at this time
of year, if for nothing more than long
walks.
KATHMANDU
Usual attraction.
Pashupatinath temple, casinos
Unusual action.
Excellent trekking country, beautiful forest
reserves
Kathmandu is a popular holiday
destination; little wonder, considering it's cheaper to
fly to Kathmandu from Delhi than to Mumbai. Traditional
travel to Nepal has centred around cheap shopping for
consumer goods. But availability of similar goods in
this country seems to have helped real tourism and
mountain-related travel.
For a short trip out of
town, head for the Gokarna Forest Golf Resort, run by
the Le Meridien group and situated in the 470-acre
forest which was once a private game sanctuary. A walk
around the outskirts of the forest reserve can be
rejuvenating. The Botanical Gardens at Godavari provides
some nice walks as well, in addition to lots of birding
amid green spaces punctuated with streams and old forest
trees.
The drive from Kathmandu to Pokhara runs
along a 200km highway. Pokhara itself is a nice vacation
spot, but it's also a starting point for some major
treks, and the town gives excellent views of the taller
peaks. Four kilometres south-west lies Phewa Tal, which
has a temple on an island.
Then there is the
famous mountain flight, for which you can buy tickets in
Kathmandu, or from your travel agent in India. The short
flight takes you quite close to the peaks; you get as
close a view of Everest and the other biggies as you
can, short of walking to them.
Travel can be
arranged through many agencies, such as Yeti Travels,
which is one of the largest (ph: 00977-1-221234/ 222329;
fax 226152). Their agent in Delhi is Jyoti Travel (ph:
011-6475999/ 6284333; fax:
6220654).
JAIPUR
Usual attraction. Amer
Fort, Hawa Mahal, shopping
Unusual action.
Out-of-body experience at Sambhar Lake, hidden jewels in
the dust
If you're headed to Jaipur to 'do the
circuit', throw in some extra excitement with a visit to
the palace at Samode. Stop en route at Chauki Dhani for
a Rajasthani meal in a rustic setting.
Take a
four-hour drive out of Jaipur to get to Sambhar Lake.
This brackish lake stretches for miles, often as far as
the eye can see. You can plan on staying overnight, at
the rather decrepit rest house, or with a local family.
The next morning, drive to the other end of the lake, if
you have a four-wheel vehicle such as a Gypsy or a jeep.
Start walking not just by the lake, but actually into
it, and treat yourself to an amazing experience. After a
while, you'll find yourself thigh-deep in water that
stretches seemingly endlessly. You're at least a
kilometre away from shore, and can keep going further
in, the water remaining pretty much the same level
throughout. If you're lucky, you'll find flocks of
lesser flamingos skimming the surface when you get close
to them, or else lazily scooping up microscopic algae in
their sieve-like beaks.
For a different sort of
day trip, take a two-and-a-half hour drive down to the
sleepy village of Tonk. Ask around for the Sunehri Mahal
and most people will look at you blankly. Don't look for
another Taj Mahal, where the entire city exists for the
architectural landmark of a nation. Here, you will
actually have to go to some pains to find this beautiful
structure.
When you do, you might be
disappointed. Or elated. You find a dilapidated building
with a schoolhouse in the ground floor. You scramble to
find the chowkidar to let you in. Once inside, you're in
a different world, with windows and doors of fabulous
stained glass, and gold-gilted ornamented walls and
ceiling. Not an inch of wall or ceiling space is left
without ornamentation; it is unique in its ostentatious
grotesqueness. For that age and era, one even excuses
the latter attribute, and marvels at the perfection of a
time gone by, at the attention to detail. Apart from
this bejewelled room, the rest of the village has little
to write home about, apart from lots of Rajasthani
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